Sunday, October 12, 2014

Glad to the Brink of Fear

“I have enjoyed a perfect exhilaration. I am glad to the brink of fear.”  Ralph Waldo Emerson.


            A perfect exhilaration came over me this weekend in Switzerland.  I have found, through all my travelling and exploring, that searching for happiness is not necessary.  Happiness can be found everywhere and in everything: on a rainy day, for example, it can be found in hot chocolate, running through the streets with my friends to find cover, or in the beauty of a city deserted of people, the ground sparkling with rainwater and the glow of street lamps.  I never could’ve known that Switzerland would’ve brought me such happiness.  It was almost by chance that we travelled there, simply a place to fill one last free weekend before Fall Break.  Thus, I never could’ve sought out the joy I found in Switzerland; I needed only to embrace it when I felt it, deeply and purely. 

            The first moment I felt uncontrollably, exhilaratingly free and happy was when we were walking along a river near our hostel in Interlaken.  It occurred to me this is what I was missing in Florence, and everywhere else for that matter.  How do I explain how turquoise the water was?  How green the trees were?  Even the red and yellow leaves of autumn were stark and brilliant.  Everything was in technicolor.  The mountains were covered with white snow so white and pure that they blended in with the clouds.  The view I had beside the river was powerful enough to invoke in me this thought: if this place can look like this, why doesn’t anywhere else?

            I can slightly compare the town and the mountain views to Maine or New Hampshire, and I think this might have contributed to my fond feelings for Switzerland.  I have only the best memories of Maine and New Hampshire: beautiful, stark, and vivid summer days and nights filled with the whitest of stars and the bluest of oceans in Maine; and exhilarating, exciting, and invigorating days skiing along the pure white slopes of New Hampshire.  Switzerland was most like Maine out of any place I’ve been.  I cannot compare the two, surely, but I also can’t separate them completely, since they are both so firmly rooted in nature. 

            We hiked up a mountain because we were told we could see views of all Interlaken and the Alps from the top.  This was true.  They did, of course, manage to leave out the difficulty of the hike.  We hiked without stopping from 10 to 12:30.  It was at such an incline, I sometimes had to put my hands down to climb up the rocks.  It was unbearably difficult.  We watched a few Swiss hikers come by with hiking sticks and heavy-duty equipment, so perhaps we should’ve searched for the trail the young kids and old couples had used.  But we reached the top and couldn’t complain.

            The restaurant at the top of the mountain looked like it was floating: a heavy fog had surrounded it temporarily, and you could only see it faintly, like a lighthouse in the middle of the ocean.  The fog lifted shortly, and as we ate our lunch (16 dollar sandwiches from Subway… Switzerland is the most expensive place I’ve been), we were able to look out at a view so incredible it felt surreal, like the back of a postcard or a 3D movie. 

            I wish I could explain it better, but all I can do to explain it is to say that thinking back now, I have a sense that I never saw this at all; it was so dream-like, it might’ve been a mirage.  It wouldn’t surprise me. 

            We sat at the top of the mountain and ordered hot chocolate.  As my friends slept, I sat back and stared at the view in front of me.  Mountains higher than peaks I’ll ever reach, covered with a thick white dusting that might’ve been snow or might’ve been clouds, it was so difficult to differentiate.  Trees with colors so dramatic and striking they looked like they’d been filtered on Instagram.  The water far below us so solidly turquoise it shimmered like diamonds.  I watched a few paragliders jump off the side of the mountain and wondered what life could be like here.  What the people who lived in the small cottages on the side of the mountain were doing right now.  If simple really is better.  A few cows were wandering the side of the mountain without direction, it seemed.  I wondered if the people from Switzerland enjoy their home as much as I did: if they wake up early just to enjoy the sights a little sooner, if they go to bed a little earlier because they can’t wait to see their world as soon as the sun hits the mountains from the east in the morning.

            After our hike, we ate dinner and walked over to a suburban neighborhood around 7:30.  We’d signed up for a mystery game that went something like this: we got locked into one room and had an hour (a timer was ticking on a wall).  We had to use clues around the room to figure out how to unlock things (for example, Morse code helped us unlock a journal, with a piece of paper inside coordinating us to look at symbols through a telescope on a light post outside – these symbols needed to be converted into months of the year using the horoscope chart on the wall; this helped us unlock the next key).  Anyways, that was a lot of fun, although entirely stressful with the timer on the wall and the tricky clues. 

            So that was exciting.  Then, around 9:30, exhausted, we fell asleep. 

            In the morning I awoke at 6:30 with a burning desire to see Interlaken early in the morning.  I walked outside to find it was raining, but it didn’t deter me in the slightest.  I walked determinedly to the river.  As amazing as it had been yesterday under the glow of the midday sun, it was just as surreal and mystical early in the morning.  The entire town was otherworldly.  The glow from the streetlamps sparkled across the rainy pavement.  A few shops were lazily opening their doors, but the streets were deserted.  An older couple passed me, linking arms and holding umbrellas.  Other than them, I was alone. 
           
            I walked along the river until I got the sudden craving to run, so I did.  I ran until I had gone under two bridges, and then I stopped and walked back.  I was entirely at ease, breathing in the cool morning air that felt like it had come straight to me from the mountaintops.  For a while, I thought I might want to listen to my music as I ran, so I brought headphones.  It dawned on me as I ran that I’d be missing out on the sounds of nature if I did that, so I didn’t listen to music: it was the first time I’ve ever run without music (intentionally).  The birds were chirping, the rainwater was dropping softly on the river, the church bells rang at 8, and the wind occasionally rustled the leaves on the trees.  It was one of the most peaceful mornings I’ve ever had.
           
            When I got back to the hostel my friends were awake, so we got breakfast together.  Then, two of my friends and I hopped on a train in pursuit of a place we’d heard about up the mountain a ways that offered gondola rides and zip-lining.  Even the train ride was fascinating.  The views as we weaved around the mountain were astounding: so few times did we pass houses and people; so often was it only trees and rivers. 
            The gondola ride to the top was great, if for no other reason than it was our first experience getting to see some snowy parts of the mountains.  As we rode we past houses and cattle, and I wondered what kind of life one lives on the side of a mountain like this, so segregated from life as I know it.  When we reached the top of the mountain (it was freezing), we were quickly coaxed into the zip-liner seats.  With barely time to sign any sort of waiver, the guys said, “ready?”
            I said, “Anything we need to know before we go?”  They didn’t even answer.  They just pulled down a crank that unlocked a door and suddenly we were flying through the freezing air, parallel to the mountainside.  We held our arms out and screamed, exhilarated and terrified.  It was over way too soon. 

            After our gondola ride to the bottom, we realized we had plenty of time (nearly two hours) to eat lunch before heading home.  We picked a cozy cabin-looking restaurant.  It had a stuffed black bear out front and wooden walls and tables on the inside, very Maine-esque.  We ordered burgers and tea.  The entire experience was unlike any other I’ve had in Europe: it was much less urban and modern, and much more nature-centered and comforting. 

            When we got back to our hostel I went on another run, because running along the river beats any other run I’ve done in my life. Also, Switzerland motivates you to be outside every second of every day - how can you miss it? Then we all walked to a chocolate shop where we’d signed up for a chocolate tasting along with a how-to on making chocolate.  The lesson wasn’t that interesting (we didn’t get to do anything and just watched a guy say, “this is how you put it in the fridge, and then in 3 minutes… ta-da! All done!”) but the testers were incredible.  The best chocolate I’ve ever had, and I’m not saying that simply because I’ve heard Swiss chocolate is good.  It was so rich and creamy.  Amazing.  After, we got pizza down the road (because we don’t get enough in Italy), and then returned for dessert at this same chocolate shop. 

            This morning, our last day, I knew we didn’t have much time – we needed to start our train travelling at 9 a.m. in order to make our 3 p.m. flight.  So I had another early wake-up at 7 a.m., got dressed in my running clothes in the dark, and escaped to the glowing streets of Interlaken by 7:15.  I chose to run in the opposite direction of the river today, because I wanted to explore other places.  I ran through town, watching as a few people stepped out of their still-closed shops and onto the sidewalks to talk with their neighbors.  Some tourists were exploring, but it was still mostly deserted.  I found a park right near the chocolate shop and ran here, running past statues and fountains and around autumn trees, the mountains forever in my view.  I was enchanted by it all.  Out of all the places I’ve been, Switzerland, by far, has been my favourite. 













            

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